Font Garnide (also written Fontgarnide) is a limestone cliff above the village of Salavas, next to Vallon-Pont-d’Arc in the southern Ardèche. It has about 106 to 108 routes, up to about 40 m high, in four sectors. Its big selling point is shade: the wall stays in shade until about 3pm in summer, when most crags nearby are too hot.

The honest family verdict: a valuable summer crag for families with older kids who already climb. The approach is short but steep, and most routes are 5b and harder. Young beginners will find few routes to enjoy.

We have climbed here over the years.

Family crag snapshot

Check access before you go

Font Garnide is an established, signposted climbing site. theCrag reports a municipal order that restricts motor traffic on the forest road below the cliff during the dry season because of fire risk. Check for signs, and be ready to park lower and walk further in summer.

The Ardèche has a serious summer fire risk. No fires, no smoking in the forest, and follow any local closures.

Getting there with kids

From Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, cross into Salavas and take the first road to the right, where a sign points to the Fontgarnide climbing cliff (Alpes Guides). Park before the bridge or in the parking area, which theCrag says holds about 50 cars. Then follow the large forest track and a steeper path up and left to the cliff.

theCrag describes the approach as a steep 10 to 20 minute walk, and Yadugaz07 gives about 10 minutes with moderate height gain. With small kids, expect the longer time and bring a carrier.

Which walls work best for families

Font Garnide has four sectors, each with about 21 to 36 routes, and pitches of 20 to 40 m in one or two pitches (theCrag). Sector 2 is the most popular. The rock has slabs with pockets and cups, plus steeper walls and a famous overhang for strong climbers (Yadugaz07).

For families, the key points are:

• Easy routes are few. theCrag notes that few routes suit beginners and most are 5b to 7a. Yadugaz07 says the 4b to 6a sectors were re-equipped in autumn 2014.
• Pitches are long. Many routes are 30 to 40 m. Check rope length on every route and tie a stopper knot. An 80 m rope is useful.
• Teens will enjoy it most. A teen climbing 5c to 6b has plenty to do in the shade.

A summer morning plan

A good summer day here starts early. Leave the campsite soon after breakfast, walk up while the forest is still cool, and aim to be climbing by 9am. Pick one sector and stay there, so the kids are not hauled along the cliff base. One adult leads a 4b to 6a route from the re-equipped sectors and sets a top-rope; the teen climbs it, then cleans it with the adult watching. Younger kids can explore the forest edge with the second adult, well away from the base.

Pack lunch for the crag and plan to be walking down by about 2pm. That leaves time to reach the river before the hottest part of the afternoon.

For younger kids and first-timers, Grand Charmasson’s family sector, a short drive away, is a better choice. Come to Font Garnide when the kids are ready for longer, more sustained routes.

Safety notes for parents

Steep approach. The path is steep in places. Watch footing on the way down at the end of the day.

Long pitches. Rope length errors are a real risk on 35 to 40 m routes. Knot the ends.

Afternoon sun. After about 3pm in summer, the sun hits the wall. Finish before then on hot days, and carry more water than you think you need.

Mistral. Yadugaz07 notes conditions are pleasant except on mistral days. Strong wind makes rope work harder and cooler.

Helmets. Wear them on routes and at the base. Our what to pack for a family crag day list covers the rest.

Best time to visit

Spring to autumn, with summer mornings the classic time (Yadugaz07, theCrag). Alpes Guides calls it “the joker of summer” for the hottest months. In winter, the northwest-facing wall can feel damp.

Toilets, water and food

We could not confirm toilets or water at the crag. Bring plenty of water, especially in summer. Vallon-Pont-d’Arc has shops, bakeries and cafés.

Where to stay

Vallon-Pont-d’Arc and Salavas have many campsites, rentals and hotels, but summer is very busy. Book ahead for July and August. A campsite on the river side of Salavas keeps both the crag and the swimming close, which cuts down on driving with tired kids.

Things to do nearby with kids

Font Garnide pairs perfectly with an afternoon at the river. Climb in the morning shade, then head to the Ardèche for swimming or a canoe trip once the sun reaches the wall. Kids who know a swim is coming will happily walk down. The Pont d’Arc rock arch is a few minutes’ drive away.

Is Font Garnide good for families?

For families with older kids who already climb, yes, especially in summer. The morning shade is a rare gift in the Ardèche in July and August. For toddlers and beginners, the steep approach and the lack of easy routes make it hard work.

Go on a summer morning. Bring a long rope and lots of water. Leave by 3pm and head to the river.

New to climbing outside? Read how to choose your first outdoor climbing area with kids and our family climbing gear guide. Then see Grand Charmasson with kids, family climbing in France, or all kid-friendly climbing destinations.