Draper’s Bluff is a tall sandstone cliff in the Shawnee Hills of southern Illinois, above the village of Lick Creek in Johnson County, just east of I-57. Its walls rise more than 100 feet, and for decades it drew climbers from across the Midwest. It is still the only place in southern Illinois with multi-pitch climbing (Daily Egyptian). Next to it, Cedar Bluff sits inside a protected nature reserve with its own climbing.

Before you plan a family trip, know this. The south face of Draper’s Bluff is private land. You may only climb there with the owner’s permission, which today means booking through the owner’s guiding and climbing school, Vertical Heartland. Cedar Bluff, next door, has a marked climbing area open to the public.

We have climbed here over the years.

Family crag snapshot

Check access before you go

This is the most important section on this page.

Permission from the owner is required. Draper’s Bluff is private property. Do not climb, scramble or walk to the base without the owner’s permission. Mountain Project lists the crag under closed areas. The only legal way to climb there today is through Vertical Heartland, the owner’s climbing school, which works by reservation only (Enjoy Illinois, Daily Egyptian). Contact them before you go for current programs, ages and prices.

A short history of Draper’s Bluff

Draper’s Bluff was a popular Midwest climbing destination long before it closed. Its height and its multi-pitch lines set it apart from the shorter crags at Jackson Falls and Giant City (Daily Egyptian).

In about 1996, Eric Ulner, a Southern Illinois University graduate from Murphysboro, bought the property. He told the Daily Egyptian he wanted “a chance to buy and preserve one of my favorite climbing crags.” For 13 years he kept it open to the public.

That changed because of state law. Illinois’s Recreational Use of Land and Water Areas Act used to protect landowners who let people use their land for free. In 2005, lawmakers narrowed it to cover only hunting and recreational shooting (Illinois Forestry Association). Hikers, climbers and other visitors lost that cover, and landowners gained the liability. When Ulner learned of the change in 2009, he posted the cliff closed to unsupervised access, even though, as Climbing.com put it, he had been a vocal advocate for climbers. A 2010 bill to restore the protection stalled in committee.

Since then, climbing at Draper’s has continued only under supervision, through Vertical Heartland. The Daily Egyptian reported in 2012 that the school mostly serves youth groups and newer climbers. For families, that is good news: a guided day on a historic cliff, with the gear and rope work handled for you.

Cedar Bluff is open. The neighboring Cedar/Draper’s Bluff Land and Water Reserve is a registered nature preserve. Only the Cedar Bluff part is open to the public, and “a marked section of the main south-facing bluff is open to rock climbing” (Illinois Nature Preserves Commission). Stay within the marked section. The reserve also runs prescribed burns and tree thinning, and closes suddenly when burns are under way (Mountain Project).

Getting there with kids

From I-57, take the Lick Creek exit (36). Drive east on Lick Creek Road for about 1.5 miles, then turn north on Cedar Grove Road (Illinois Nature Preserves Commission).

For Cedar Bluff, park at the Cedar Grove Church lot, away from the building, or at the roadside spots west on Regent Road and east on Cedar Grove Road. Mountain Project asks climbers to be quiet and polite here, and not to use the church outhouse. A trail leads from the parking area to the cliff. We could not confirm how long it takes, so allow extra time with small kids.

For a guided day at Draper’s, Vertical Heartland lists its address as 5050 Lick Creek Road, Buncombe. Meet where they tell you when you book.

Which walls work best for families

Cedar Bluff has 54 climbs on Mountain Project, from 5.5 to 5.12+, with trad, sport and top-rope lines and a little bouldering. Classics include Dizzy, a two-pitch 5.9, and Schoolyard Blues, a 5.11a sport route. That is a better spread for parents and teens than for young beginners. Look for the 5.5 to 5.7 routes in the guidebook and set top-ropes from below where you can. The cliff tops are over 100 feet high in places, so do not let kids near the top edge.

Draper’s Bluff has longer routes, including multi-pitch climbs such as Bloody Nose (5.6, listed on theCrag). For a family, the only way onto these is with the owner’s permission, through a guided program. For a first outdoor day with kids, a guide also solves gear, rope work and route choice.

Safety notes for parents

Cliff tops. The bluffs are over 100 feet high. Many sandstone cliffs here have open edges along the top trails. Keep children well back.

Ticks, poison ivy and heat. Southern Illinois forests have ticks and poison ivy from spring to fall. Summer is hot and humid on a south-facing cliff. Do tick checks after every day out.

Prescribed burns. Respect closure signs. Smoke and fire crews may be working in the reserve.

Protected plants. The reserve protects rare sandstone cliff and glade plants. Stay on trails and do not clean or garden routes.

Our what to pack for a family crag day list covers first aid, water and layers.

Best time to visit

Spring and fall bring the best temperatures. Sunny winter days are often good on south-facing sandstone. Summer is hot, humid and buggy.

Toilets, water and food

There are no climber toilets or water. Do not use the church outhouse. Bring water and lunch. Vienna and Marion have shops and restaurants a short drive away.

Where to stay

Ferne Clyffe State Park, a short drive west, has camping and hiking. The Shawnee National Forest area has many cabins for rent. Marion has motels near the interstate.

Things to do nearby with kids

Ferne Clyffe State Park has family hiking trails and camping close by. Giant City State Park, a short drive northwest, has sandstone passages kids can walk through, plus its own climbing. Jackson Falls, south of here, is one of the best climbing areas in the Midwest.

Is Draper’s Bluff good for families?

Only with the owner’s permission. The cliff is private and has been closed to unsupervised climbing since 2009, so do not plan a family day here on your own. Book through Vertical Heartland, and enjoy a piece of Midwest climbing history the legal way. Cedar Bluff next door is open within a marked section and can work for families with older kids, but its routes lean toward 5.8 and harder.

If your kids are new to climbing, book a guided day with Vertical Heartland or look at Giant City, which is more family-friendly. If you go to Cedar Bluff, park politely at the church, stay inside the marked climbing area and check for burn closures.

New to climbing outside? Read how to choose your first outdoor climbing area with kids and our family climbing gear guide. Then see Giant City with kids, Jackson Falls with kids, or all kid-friendly climbing destinations.

Top photo: Garden of the Gods, Shawnee National Forest, about 40 km from Draper’s Bluff. Photo by Brian Hubbard on Unsplash.