Rock climbing is a sport that is not only about ascending to different heights, no matter where you are. Climbing in spots that leave you in awe of endless beauty and top-quality rock faces is always a big plus. For enthusiasts, discovering the best rock climbing destinations in Europe can be the ultimate adventure.
You can say that there are two types of climbers. The ones that push themselves at their local crags and the explorers, the ones who jump from one crag to another in search of the next big thing.
Europe is known as the cradle of alpine climbing and sport climbing, so finding a crag near your hometown is usually pretty easy nowadays. Today, we will focus on some of the most impressive and photogenic rock climbing spots where you are guaranteed to have a great time, no matter the level you are at.
From the Balkans, all across Europe, we will discover together some of the most impressive rock climbing and bouldering destinations.
Kalymnos – The Rock Climbing island of the world
Located in the southeastern Aegean Sea, Kalymnos is part of the Dodecanese island chain in Greece. Due to its relatively remote location, relatively far from continental Greece and Turkey, Kalymnos is a place where you will find mostly a population of dedicated rock climbers.
Blessed with stunning views, easy Mediterranean weather, and top-notch vulcanic rock, Kalymnos is a place that has drawn the attention of traveling climbers for decades.
The island is riddled with sport climbing spots from caves to crags and coastal cliffs, but it also features great via ferrata lines and multi-pitch routes. While climbing in Kalymnos, you will experience the beauty of so-called 3D climbing, having to orientate 360 degrees to climb some routes, especially in the caves where you will be climbing on tufas.
The most popular spot in Kalymnos is, without a doubt, Grande Grotta. An immense crag inside a shell-shaped cave, Grande Grotta is home to some of the most breathtaking scenery and some of the most beautiful climbs. Most grades here revolve around 7a, but there are plenty of easier routes as well.
Siurana – The Winter Climbing Destination
Located in the heart of Catalunya, Siurana is one of the most famous climbing spots in the world. Renowned especially for the hard climbing testpieces set out by Chris Sharma, Siurana is a great place for climbers who don’t want to stop during the winter.
Siurana village is known for its beautiful limestone walls and rich cultural and historical heritage. Situated on top of a hill, the village has well-preserved medieval stone buildings that add to its charm. Surrounded by various adventure activities, Siurana offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and world-class climbing.
Siurana is home to some of the most famous rock climbing routes, like La Rambla, the 9a+ route first climbed by Alex Huber. However, there are also many routes graded 5 and 6, just like in most sport climbing areas.
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If your maximum grade is lower, your options will be more limited, and some sectors may be off-limits. On the bright side, Siurana offers a wide variety of sectors, each with its own unique approaches, views, and characteristics. While there isn’t a single sector with a large number of lower-grade routes, most sectors have a few routes within each grade band. It’s easy to visit multiple crags in one day and select the best routes at your grade, then explore a completely different area the next day. This variety makes for an interesting and diverse trip without even leaving Siurana.
Fontainebleau – The Cradle of European bouldering
Fontainebleau, located not far from bustling Paris, offers a fantastic opportunity for high-quality bouldering and a chance to enjoy some fresh air. It is also renowned as the ultimate destination for European bouldering enthusiasts, with many considering it to be the premier bouldering area in Europe.
The forested area near the main town presents a variety of bouldering problems, with routes that clearly indicate their difficulty. Fontainebleau’s reputation as a top climbing destination has been steadily increasing since climbing gained popularity as a mainstream activity in the late 1800s, and it is now more accessible than ever. One of the appealing aspects of this bouldering mecca is the opportunity to climb throughout the year.
All the boulders in Fontainebleau consist of sandstone and are usually located in picturesque forested settings with sandy landings. Despite offering problems for all types of climbers, the area is known for its challenging slippery slopers, seemingly impossible micro-crimps, nerve-wracking top-outs, and physically demanding moves.
The Fontainebleau grading system is utilized, but it’s advisable not to focus too much on the grades. The boulders are renowned for being quite difficult, with a strong emphasis on using the correct beta. This becomes even more challenging in popular areas where holds are polished and slippery.
Even if many boulders featured in the forest are considered quite challenging, you have over 200 different climbing areas with circuits that can suit boulderers of any level.
Some of the well-known regions are located west of Fontainebleau town, with Bas Cuvier, Apremont, and Franchard being among the favorites. Certain areas feature numerous routes and circuits, while others are smaller and less frequented.
Magic Wood – The Swiss Bouldering Paradise
Situated in a pine-forested river valley, Magic Wood has sparked the imagination of many world-class climbers, such as Dave Graham. The small forest riddled with sharp granite boulders is found near the Swiss village Ausserferrera, in the picturesque Averstal.
Even if it looks fairly secluded, Magic Wood is only three hours away from Munich or two hours away from Milan or Zurich, so getting here by car during a weekend trip is no big deal.
Covering a relatively small area, Magic Wood features over 1000 routes, making it a great place for climbers of any grade to enjoy a great summer-bouldering escape.
Although it’s known mostly for the hard-climbing testpieces such as In Search of Time Lost (8C) or Unendliche Geschichte (9a), you can find fairly easy boulders in the area starting from 6A all the way to 8C.
Unfortunately, the climbs get more beautiful and scenic as they get harder, but spending time in Magic Forest is already a plus, no matter if you send monster projects or not. Whether you are planning a serious climbing session or just an easy-going weekend away from the hot summer sun, be sure to bring some skin treatment for your fingers, as granite is known as sharp and edgy. Don’t forget to check out the Climbing Gym Built in a Nazi Bunker
Sicily – The Mediterranean Climbing Gem
Sicily is a highly sought-after destination in Italy. It offers plenty of attractions for climbers who want to experience the Italian lifestyle. As one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean, it provides ample opportunities for exploration and boasts delightful weather.
Sicily is a top destination for climbers, boasting rugged mountains, active volcanoes, and miles of rocky coasts with pristine beaches. Whether you’re into single-pitch routes, trad lines, deep water solos, or bouldering, this Italian island has it all for an unforgettable holiday.
Due to the mild climate and the numerous opportunities available, it is feasible to climb year-round.
When planning a bouldering trip to Sicily, make sure to explore Bosco Scorace, a small natural area of hills covered with eucalyptus oaks, Mediterranean scrub, and plenty of rock. The sandstone found here is perfectly shaped and textured, comparable to that of Fontainebleau. You’ll find routes of all difficulties, ranging from 4 to 8A+, boulders of various sizes, and comfortable, safe landings.
While you’re there, it’s a great opportunity to try deep-water soloing. For high-quality DWS, be sure to visit the Syracuse area, which offers excellent rock, a deep seabed, and climbs up to about ten meters high.
One of the must-visit spots in Syracuse is Grotta delle Rondini. It’s one of the most stunning sections of the cliff, featuring five routes from 6c to 7c on the edges of the cave and an overhanging pillar, as well as a 5c route that unexpectedly ascends vertically to the top among the large overhangs.
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If you are already located in Europe, this is only a small part of the opportunities you’ll find for your next climbing trips. With the Alps spreading from France all the way to Austria, the Carpathians, and the Pyrenees, thousands of kilometers of Riviera, finding the next climbing spot is only a matter of how far you are willing to travel.
When coming from overseas, our recommendations can only be the starting point of your Euro adventure!
The Carpathians – the wild gem of Eastern Europe
The Carpathians stretch for over 1500 km across seven countries, making them the third-longest European mountain range after the Urals and the Scandinavian Mountains. While not as popular or imposing as the Alps in terms of height, the Carpathians are considered the gemstones of the East. With peaks not exceeding 2655 meters, they are known for their wonderful landscapes, lush vegetation, and diverse fauna.
Although parts of the Carpathians can be found in Austria and the Czech Republic, we will focus mainly on the Romanian and Slovakian sides, with the latter known as the Tatras.
Interested in more adventures in Europe? Read “Exploring Europe’s Untamed Wilderness: Discover the Wildest National Parks”
