Have you ever climbed in the South? If not, you’re missing out on an incredible experience in Stone Mountain! Having called Tennessee home for years, I fully immersed myself in the region’s diverse climbing areas. For those that have not been opportune to be here, permit me to spill the tea.
You see, the South offers a climber’s paradise from the splitter-laden T-Wall to the exposed sandstone faces at Lookout Mountain’s Sunset Park, every possible conquest awaits you.
To get a better insight into this concealed gem of the South, I encourage you to keep reading because I have so much to share with you today.
The Eternal Charm of the Looking Glass
Let’s start this exploration with the charm of Looking Glass. At Looking Glass, each wall is known to present its own unique set of challenges. Can you imagine the adrenaline rush Steve Longnecker felt when he made his first ascent of the iconic Nose route?
The towering walls at Whiteside Mountain are a must-visit for those craving long pitches, daring run-outs, and awe-inspiring views.
During my time there, my Tennessee crew started an annual Thanksgiving tradition – taking a 6 to 7-hour drive to the sublime Stone Mountain in North Carolina. What started as a small group affair quickly became a well-renowned social climbing festival.
While at our getaways, we tend to spice things up a bit now with a grand turkey feast at camp. Sure, we’d occasionally wake up to fresh snow, but the sun gleaming off the striking Great Arch keeps us psyched.
Stone Mountain is an impressive granite dome tucked into the North Carolina foothills. The South Face area is the star of the show. Despite the prominent appearance of the Great Arch from afar, it actually offers a casual climbing route with abundant gear in place for your expedition.
Well, that’s the exception. Most of Stone’s multi-pitch routes are adventure climbs with minimal protection and avoid-at-all-costs run-outs where your footwork, balance, and mental game matter more than pull-up strength.
Although the routes are bolt-protected, these are not categorized as sport climbing routes. I’ve taken groundfalls here and slipped over 70 down, only to repeat most of the pitch. Yet that’s the beauty of Stone – embracing adventurous climbing style while surrounded by stunning scenery.
A Brief Historical Rundown of Climbing at Stone Mountain
The 1960s were a transformative time for climbing at Stone Mountain, North Carolina. Legendary pioneers like George DeWolfe, Tim McMillan, Jim McEver, and Bob Rotert etched their names into the tablets of history with their first ascents on iconic routes like “The Great Arch” and “No Alternative.”
By 1975, even modern testpieces like the 5.10 “Rainy Day Women” (one of my favorites) had gone free, epitomizing the bold spirits of those early visionaries.
Also See: Fit climbing shoes!
Fast forward to today, and Stone has seen some updates courtesy of the Carolina Climbers Coalition – replacing old bolts for a (slightly) less nerve-racking experience on those wild runouts. Be sure to join your local coalition or the Access Fund to support their efforts!
The Best Time to Climb
Are you looking to tackle Stone for yourself? Here is a hint, and I will give it for free. Winter is the prime time to tackle the sunny South Face.
Why? You might wonder.
Well, it’s because this is the time of the year when friction is optimal. Bring double ropes for rappels and light racks, and trust the bolted fasteners for support, you are good to go.
You can also set camp at the park or private grounds nearby, or enjoy Elkin’s restaurants and motels.
How to Get There
Getting there is easy: Stone lies 70 miles north of Charlotte off I-77, and it is also close to Elkin. For more specific directions, take US 21, turn onto Traphill Road (NC 1002), and follow the signs to Stone Mountain Park’s John P. Frank Parkway. Voila! You have reached your destination. Let the fun begin!
Whether you are an experienced veteran or a climbing newbie, the experience Stone offers is unique and invigorating like no other. Those demanding runouts will test your mental fortitude, but that’s part of the exhilarating journey!
Besides sweltering summer, each season provides prime conditions on this sun-basked wonderland. Today, Stone stands proud as one of North Carolina’s premier climbing areas, where it fulfills its potential.
Conclusion
Stone Mountain is more than a beautiful landscape – it’s a testament to the human spirit of pioneers who dared to conquer nature’s challenges. Their bold tales echo across the site, and it ensures the spirit of adventure burns eternal here.
Share your own Thanksgiving climbing tradition in the comments! We’d love to hear about your crew’s experiences and favorite spots.
